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Acadiana Textile Care
 


CARE AND CONSERVATION OF HISTORIC TEXTITLES

Jenna Tedrick Kuttruff Curator of the LSU Textile & Costume Gallery 

School of Human Ecology, Louisiana State University 


Guide to Preventive Maintenance

Principle of reversibility

  • whatever treatment is employed it should be reversible and removable with a minimum amount of damage to the piece itself and it should not be at the expense of its historical or artistic significance. 

Prime concern is to maintain pieces in a stable and neutral state

  • store clean textiles in clean inert housing 

Topics

 

 

 Climate Control
Natural fibers expand and contract according to temperature and moisture content in surrounding air. Sever and rapid changes in temperature and humidity cause adverse swelling and shrinking of the fibers. This physical action results Fin structural damage whereby the fibers lose their natural properties of resilience, elasticity and tensile strength. 

Desired conditions 

  • Temperature - 70 degrees F, + or - 5 degrees 
  • Humidity - 50 percent, + or - 5 % 
  • Air circulation but no draft 
  • Not stored in basements or attics 

Back to Topics


     
     

Lighting

Both visible and ultra-violet light causes fading and internal breakdown of textile fibers. 

  • photochemical reactions occur at imperceptible rate 
  • irreversible damage occurs before it becomes visible damage accelerated by high temperature, high 
  • humidity, smog and acidic atmospheric gases 

Improper lighting 

    too intense - recommended lighting is 10 foot-candle power produces excessive heat high degree of ultra-violet radiation

Sunlight & fluorescent lights 

    high ultra-violet 

    filters - liquid spray, UF-3 Plexiglas

Incandescent lights 

    low ultra-violet 

    high infra-red 

    high heat generation (used at a distance, with ventilation)

    Back to Topics

Mildew

Molds are always present in the air and can grow on any fiber surface in favorable 

environment of moisture and humidity 

  • causes staining and structural damage to cellulose 
  • prevent with air circulation, 50% humidity, clean textiles 
  • paradichiorobenzene can inhibit growth of mildew 

Mildew on textiles 

  • spot or wet clean with detergent solution, if washable 
  • expose to sunlight when humidity is less than 50% 
  • low wetting on portable hair dryer (12 inches away) 
  • airtight chamber with paradichiorobenzene for 1-3 weeks 
  • remove desiccated infestation by brushing and vacuuming entire piece 

To avoid mildew 

  • keep textiles dry and clean 
  • allow good air circulation 
  • inspect textiles on a regular basis 

    Back to Topics

Insects and Rodents

Avoid with clean storage area, regular inspection, vacuuming, and airing 

Clothes moths and carpet beetles

  • attracted to wool and food spots on other fibers 

Paradichlorobenzene crystals effective control 

  • heavier than air, suspend above textiles 
  • do not place directly on textiles 
  • do not uses on feathers, paraffin, plastic, leather 

Freezing now used to kill insects and larvae in textiles 

  • frozen at 20 C or 5 F in 8 hours 
  • remain frozen at least 40 hours 
  • unfrozen slowly 
  • brittle, handle carefully when frozen 

Silverfish and firebrats 

  • attracted to starch, glue, paste and sizing 
  • professional exterminator 
  • do not spray insecticides directly on textiles 

Mice, rats, and other rodents 

  • damage by food and nesting patterns 
  • traps, poison bait, professional exterminator 
  • do not store textiles near food 

    Back to Topics

Cleaning

Soils, stains, and dust not only dull the appearance of the textiles, but also accelerate destruction of fibers through chemical and abrasive action. 

  Vacuuming

  • easy and readily available 
  • remove dust, loose soils 
  • safe for most pieces 

Lie flat on clean, smooth surface

  • low power setting 
  • use small smooth edged; attachment 
  • cover with fiberglass screen or nylon netting 

Wet cleaning - water and detergent solution

Fiber content very important

  • wool - low wet strength, felts 
  • wool, silk easily damaged by alkali 
  • any - often disintegrate in water if very old 

Check for color fastness of dyes

  • check all colored areas 
  • use both plain water and detergent solution 
  • inconspicuous area, drop with solution, white blotter 
  • if; color bleeds, do not wet clean 

Non-ionic (neutral) detergent - not soap

  • Orvus WA Paste, DW 300, Igepal, (Ivory Liquid, Woolite) 
  • 1/2 oz detergent per gallon of water 

Water

  • distilled, deionized, filtered, softened 
  • do not use hard water 

Support

  • fiberglass screening 
  • sandwich weak or abraded areas with silk or nylon tulle 

Bath chamber

  • large enough to hold textile flat or with minimum folds 
  • glass, inert plastic, stainless steel, porcelain 
  • photographic trays, bathtubs, sinks, wood box lined with polyethylene 

Process

  • soak first in plain, room temperature water (check pH) 
  • soak in detergent solution (70-80 F, 1 hour) 
  • may repeat in clean detergent solution if needed 
  • do not agitate 
  • can flush solution through textile using cellulose. sponge 
  • rinse 4 or more times 
  • check pH of final rinse - should be near 7 (neutral) 

Drying

  • remove on support screen 
  • blot dry with clean white towels or sheets 
  • smooth textile to minimize wrinkles, align yarns 
  • small, flat textiles can dry on smooth surface 
  • large textiles can dry on screen to let air to both sides 
  • air circulation helpful in speeding up drying

Dry cleaning

  • conflicting views on appropriateness of dry cleaning
  • dry cleaning solvents tend to dry out fibers
  • generally only contemporary or very study textiles should be dry cleaned
  • commercial dry cleaning generally not recommended because tumbling action is too
  • harsh
  • used to remove oil-borne stains
  • spotting can be done
  • hand cleaned only by professional dry cleaner
    • use fresh solution and check dyes
    • Stoddard solution recommended over perchlorethylene

Steaming

  • aids in shaping and blocking textiles
  • helpful in relaxing creases, and wrinkles
  • steam only clean textiles
  • hold nozzle away from textile to allow steam to cool some
  • historic textiles should never be pressed with a hot fron
  • high twist fabrics (chiffon and crepe) should not be steamed

Repair and Stabilization

  • support fragile areas with crepeline or net
  • use natural fiber thread (cottQn, silk)
  • use long stitches (1/4 inch or more)

Reproduction or duplication of extremely fragile pieces

Storage - safe, clean, accessible

Different sizes and forms of pieces require diversity of storage

Flat storage

  • allows textile to rest in horizontal position
  • stored with few if any folds ~ad folds to avoid creasing)
  • reposition creases periodically
  • avoid stacking if possible
  • separate layers with muslin or acid free tissue
  • never place large, heavy textile on top of small fragile

Store on large inert surface, shelves or drawers

  • wood sealed wi'th polyurethane and lined with muslin or acid free paper
  • metal lined with polyethylene plastic film, mylar, muslin, or acid free paper
  • acid free boxes, buffered or non-buffered

Rolled storage

  • large flat pieces
  • cardboard tube (4-6")
  • sealed with polyurethane and/or covered with mylar and acid free paper or muslin
  • roll perpendicular to warp threads
  • rolled with layers of tissue to pad
  • be careful not to roll in wrinkles
  • cover with cloth or tissue
  • tie with twill tape

Double layered or sandwiched textiles (quilts)

  • hung over a tube

Support tubes on wooden dowels or metal pipe

Hanging storage for costume three dimensional

  • supported by inert hanging device
  • support should take on general shape of the shoulder
  • support other portions of garments with twill tape
  • do not store in plastic bags
  • only sturdiest pieces

wire hangers are terrible

padded hangers

cloth covering (dust cover)

Specialized

  • hats rest on pegs with rounded part for crown

Framed storage

  • for small flat textiles in frames
  • flat or in vertical bins
  • protect from scratches

Labeling

Provide means for safe and easily accessible information

  • we use only accession/catalog number
  • indelible laundry pen on pellon labels,
  • sewn to textile when possible
  • small acid free hand tags
  • always attach labels in a consistent place
  • store so label is readily visible
  • also label storage units (1ists), boxes, rolls, etc

Display

Space can be a problem

Lighting must be controlled (filters)

Temperature & humidity controlled

Protection from people

Equalize weight of textile on the support device

Mannequins can stress garments (new type)

Mounting of flat textiles

  • frames
  • hang with sleeves for rod
  • velcro

Draped pieces
 
 
 
 

"DO NOT DO's"

FOR TEXTILE CONSERVATION1




DO NOT STORE TEXTILES

  • in attics, basements, or outside storage buildings
  • in direct contact with ordinary plastic bags (dry cleaners bags are especially bad)
  • in unlined metal containers
  • in unlined wooden drawers, chests or boxes (including cedar chests)
  • in ordinary cardboard boxes
  • on unpadded hangers (especially. metal or plastic)
  • in direct contact with moth repellents
  • around food, dust or dirt
  • with ordinary white or blue tissue paper
  • with pins left in fabrics
  • with sharp, unpadded creases and folds
  • with heavier pieces on top of lighter ones
  • without removing starch

But, DO check regularly for air circulation, moisture, pests, and other changes

DO NOT DISPLAY TEXTILES

  • by sandwiching between glass or by laying glass directly on textile
  • by nailing through textile
  • by hanging without adequate support and weight evenly distributed
  • without adequate air circulation and dust protection
  • by using glues, tape or other adhesives
  • in direct sunlight
  • in unfiltered fluorescent light
  • where the heat from incandescent lights can built up
  • using sewing machine stitching on object
  • permanently

DO NOT CLEAN TEXTILES

  • in a washing machine
  • without testing for colorfastness
  • without regard to total fiber, backing and ornament content
  • with soap or hard water
  • with chlorine bleach
  • and dry in direct sunlight
  • and finish with a hot iron

1 Adapted from "Some 'Do Not Do's' for Textile conservation" by Evva L Z. Wilson, Associate Specialist, Apparel and Textile Management, Louisiana State University Agricultural center, Louisiana cooperative Extension Service.
 
 

BASIC WET-CLEANING PROCEDURES

FOR UNDYED COTTON AND LINEN1

The primary goals in treating historic textiles are to return the fabric to a neutral state and to remove the particles that cause abrasion and wear. The appearance of the textile is usually improved, but this is of secondary concern.

1. Identify materials

  • fiber content of all fabrics, embellishments, etc.
  • check for color fastness of any dyed materials

2. Handling the article

  • keep flat throughout cleaning process
  • use chamber large enough to hold textile flat or with minimum folds
  • note any weak or worn areas that require special treatment
  • support on fiberglass screening
  • sandwich weak areas with silk or nylon tulle

3. Remove loose dirt

  • vacuum through fiberglass screen
  • use low power setting or open vent to reduce suction

4. Washing

  • do not pour or run water directly on fabric
  • soak in plain distilled/deionized water at room temperature (1/2 hour)
  • soak in detergent solution (1/2 oz. non-ionic detergent per gallon of water), room
  • temperature or warmed to no more than 90 degrees Fahrenheit (1 hour)
  • rinse with distilled/deionized water
  • repeat detergent and rinsing if necessary
  • rinse thoroughly (5-6 times)
  • fabrics sewn between protective mesh require more rinsing

5. Bleaching

  • bleach only for a purpose, such as an exhibit; effects of bleaching are only temporary and are damaging to textile
  • may remove yellowness but generally will not remove stains (spots)
  • Mild bleaching solution: 5/7 oz of 30% hydrogen-peroxide to 1 quart of distilled
  • water at room temperature (or 7 oz 3 % hydrogen-peroxide to 25 oz of water). To hasten bleaching process and stabilize hydrogen-peroxide, add 1/4 oz sodium perborate, dissolved in part of the water (may need to be heated to enable dissolution)
  • soak article in bleach solution for no more than 5 minutes; lay saturated piece flat
  • on piece of clear plastic and fold lightly to encase piece without creasing
  • leave until desired whiteness is obtained, generally 1 hour, maximum limit is 3 hours
  • rinse thoroughly to remove all traces of chemicals
  • fabrics sewn between protective mesh require more rinsing

6. Drying

  • drain textile on fiberglass support
  • absorb excess moisture with undyed cloth towel or sheet
  • lay flat on smooth inert surface (glass or plexiglass)
  • allow to dry at room temperature
  • indirect air movement facilitates drying

7. Smoothing

  • smoothing or blocking may be done if article is sturdy enough
  • do not stretch the fabric
  • "finger press" ruffles or trim while damp
  • 3-dimensional objects may be shaped and stuffed with polyfil

8. Stearning/pressing

  • steaming aids shaping and blocking and relaxes wrinkles and creases
  • avoid placing steamer head directly on textile
  • historic textiles should never be pressed with a hot iron
  • if pressing is required for exhibit or use (as in a christening dress), use a cool iron and be very careful, especially with point of iron

9. Protect cleaned article through proper storage techniques and monitoring

1This information has been adapted by Jenna Tedrick Kuttruff from "How to Wet-Clean Undyed Cotton and Linen", by Maureen Collins McHugh, information Leaflet 478, Museum of History and Technology, Smithsonian Institution, Washington DC, 1967; and Consideration for the Care of Textiles and Costumes: A Handbook for the Non-Specialist, by Harold F. Mailand, Indianapolis Museum of Art, Indianapolis, IN, 1980.
 
 
 
 

TEXTILE CONSERVATION GLOSSARY1

ASTM Standard Tenninology of Textile Conservation

Conservation - the examination, preservation, and restoration of cultural objects with minimal sacrifice of their aesthetic and historic integrity.

    Examination - analysis of 

      1) the materials, structure, embellishments, and condition of a cultural object, and 

      2) the impact of these factors along with documentary characteristics on the treatment, display, and storage of the object.

Preservation - action taken to retard or prevent deterioration of or damage to cultural objects.

Restoration - action directed towards returning the condition of an object to its original state.

Storage

pH - measure of acid or alkaline condition represented by a scale whose values range from 0 - 14 with 7 representing neutrality. Numbers that are less than 7 represent increasing acidity and numbers greater than 7 represent increasing alkalinity.

Acid-free papers - non-acidic papers used for textile storage. Ordinary tissue paper and newspaper are not acid-free.

Nonbuffered - neutral pH paper that can be used with all textiles and should always be used with protein fibers such as wool and silk.

Buffered - slightly alkaline paper buffered with calcium carbonate so that it will not become acidic as quickly as nonbuffered paper. It should be used with cellulosic fibers such as cotton and linen.

Barrier - heavy gauge acid-free paper used to prevent the transfer of acid.

Mylar - polyester film that can be used as an acid barrier between textiles and undesirable surfaces.

Polyester batting - polyester fiber fill or polyester quilt batting can be used to pad hangers, make rolls to prevent creases in storage and shape textiles.

Unbleached muslin - fabric that after washing can be used as a substitute for acid-free paper, for covering padded hangers and padded tables, and as a component in many other storage or exhibition procedures. Muslin should be washed to remove starches or other finishes before using. Clean white cotton sheets and pillow cases may also be used.

Crepeline - strong, sheer silk fabric used for reinforcing and backing textile items of various kinds.

Cleaning

Soil - any deposit or discoloration on a textile that is objectionable and potentially harmful if not removed.

Stain - soiled area that has become discolored. Stains can weaken and/or destroy fabrics.

Brushing - gentle use of a soft brush (such as a sable artist's brush) to dislodge surface particles of dust or dirt from textiles.

Vacuuming - use of a low powered, hand held vacuum cleaner to remove soil, dust and loose dirt from objects, generally done through fiberglass screening or mesh fabric.

Fiberglass screening - non-rusting screen used to protect a textile when vacuuming or as a support when wet cleaning.

Wet cleaning - the process whereby a textile is cleaned in a water and detergent solution to remove soils and return it to a neutral state. Wet cleaning often prolongs the life of the textile.

Water- the most useful cleaning fluid. Tap water is likely to be contaminated with dissolved substances and undesirable matter harmful to textiles.

  • Distilled water - water that has had foreign substances removed through a process of evaporation and condensation. Distilled water is neutral and is preferred for wet cleaning.
  • De-ionized water - water that has had ions removed. It is neutral and can be used for wet cleaning.
  • De-mineralized or softened water - water that has had the minerals removed. This water is soft but not neutral. It may be used for wet cleaning if distilled or de-ionized water is not available.
  • Hard water - water that contains dissolved minerals. It should not be used for wet cleaning.

Soaps - cleaning agents made from fats and oils that require a high temperature to disperse. These are generally more difficult to remove from fabrics than are detergents.

Detergents - washing and cleaning agents with a composition different from soap but that clean by the same mechanisms as soaps.

  • Neutral detergents - detergents that contain no alkalies, builders, brighteners, or bleaches. These non-ionic detergents are recommended for wet cleaning textiles. These include the trade names Orvus WA Paste and Igepal.
  • Surfactant - surface activity agent added as a component of synthetic detergents to aid in wetting by lowering the water's surface tension.

Bleaches - substances used to whiten and remove color from a textile. Bleach a historic textile only for a purpose, such as for an exhibition. The effects of bleaching are only temporary and are damaging to the textile. Mild oxygen bleaches (hydrogen peroxide) may be used but chlorine bleaches should be avoided.

Dry cleaning - the process whereby a textile is cleaned using petroleum based solvents. It is used for removing oil-borne stains. Only contemporary and/or very sturdy textiles should be dry cleaned. Textiles should be hand dipped rather than tumbled. Dry cleaning solvents may be used for spot cleaning a textile.

Steaming - a process used to shape and block textiles and to relax wrinkles and creases. Only textiles that are clean should be steamed and the steamer head should not be placed directly on fabric.

1 Prepared by Jenna Tedrick Kuttruff, Curator, Louisiana State University Textile and Costume Gallery.